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What many visitors to
Panama don't realize is that just at the western tip of the
republic, lies an undiscovered land brimming with promises of
wildlife, adventure, exotic culture and enchanting mountain villages
that will make you long to extend your stay. This tropical mountain
paradise pleasantly surprises those who don't expect to find a home
away from home.
Bordering on the Pacific
side of the Continental Divide, undoubtedly luring most to Chiriqui are
the storybook villages nestled along the craggy flanks of Baru Volcano,
Panama's highest peak and only Volcano at 3,478 meters. No stranger to
the visitor, Chiriqui has long charmed Panamanians from the capital to
its cool mountain villages for a respite from the daily grind and heat
of Panama City. A-frame Swedish style houses adorn the landscape;
remnants and evidence of those Europeans who came to Panama to work on
the canal and railroad projects and surprisingly found themselves at
home in the pristine highlands of Chiriqui. As of late, the serene
beauty of forested and flower dotted hillsides have once again caused a
great many of those internationals "just passing through" to actually
set up house and take on new roles as inn keepers and coffee farmers.
Chiriqui is considered
first and foremost to be Panama's breadbasket. The slopes of Baru
Volcano are covered in a rich, black and fertile soil that has
inevitably made Chiriqui's highlands the agricultural lifeline for the
rest of Panama. Virtually everything and anything seems to grow in
colorful abundance; everything from potatoes, intoxicatingly sweet
oranges, vivid and exotic flowers, strawberries, and, of course, the
province's most recent source for pride, highland coffee whose induction
to the international coffee arena has been well received; all enjoy
Chiriqui's rich conditions and all thrive upon Chiriqui's soil.
Baru Volcano lies smack
in the center of the province flanked on either side by the small and
picturesque towns of
Boquete to the east, and Cerro Punta to the west. Both are bustling
agricultural towns where rosy cheeked people bundled in sweaters
meticulously tend their gardens and farms. Boquete's people mostly
cultivate coffee and during the months of October to February trucks can
be seen rumbling down the streets heavy with red and succulent coffee
cherries. The entire town of Boquete takes on a joyous ambiance which
culminates in the yearly Boquete Coffee and Flower Festival
during the month of January. This week-long festival shows off flowers
imported from Europe and carefully nursed into bloom in Boquete, as well
as the fair's newest addition: the Specialty Coffee Association of
Panama (SCAP) coffee hut which has been hosting their yearly coffee
cupping (akin to wine tasting) featuring prestigious cuppers from all
over the world.
Known as the "Valley of
the Moon" to the natives, Chiriqui is also home to a large population of
Ngobe-Bugle (Guaymi) Indians. Panama's largest tribe, they number about
125,000 and although found in large groups in Chiriqui's eastern town of
Tole, many Ngobes make the yearly migration to Chiriqui's highlands in
search of jobs as coffee pickers. A strenuous and labor-intense job,
coffee picking for the Ngobes is the financial and social event of the
year since they make the bulk of their money picking coffee and often
return home with new wives. The Ngobes still speak their own language
which they refer to as el dialecto and the women can be seen in
colorful and beautiful hand-stitched dresses called naguas. Using
the most vivid hues of blues, reds and greens, the dresses are adorned
with triangular trimming and are certainly works of art. The Ngobes can
also be seen using woven handbags called chacaras which are also
quite lovely and which, along with the naguas, can be found for
sale in the local shops along Boquete's main drag.
The towns of Cerro Punta
and Bambito on the Western side of Baru, offer vistas of manicured
agricultural farms, wild flower farms and gurgling brooks and streams.
At 1900 meters and like Boquete, this area has a brisk and cool climate
that ranges from 55-70 Fahrenheit. Cerro Punta mainly produces flowers
for export, and produce such as lettuce, tomatoes and cabbages. Along a
drive through Cerro Punta one can see the renowned horse farms that
breed and train Panama's prized thoroughbred racehorses.
Bird watching in both
Boquete and Cerro Punta is quite phenomenal. Trails crisscross their way
into these lush and verdant cloud forests and continually awe visitors
with their surreal like beauty. Upon reaching higher levels of the cloud
forest one is struck with the ethereal sound of the Black-Faced
Solitaire; a bird whose song is as lovely as the sound of chimes. The
Los Quetzales trail is a popular path for visitors and connects the two
towns of Boquete and Cerro Punta along the northern ridge of the Baru
Volcano. An easier hike from Cerro Punta to Boquete (since the former is
at higher elevation), this trail is often times a strenuous but
nonetheless beautiful hike offering excellent birding opportunities
where such birds as the Emerald Tucanette and the sought after
Resplendent Quetzal inhabit the cool jungles and flit through their
canopy of avocado and orchid laden trees. The forests surrounding these
towns are also home to pumas, as well as the new world's largest
herbivore, the tapir. By all means, consider yourself lucky if you
should happen to come across one.
For those in search of
excitement and a reawakening of their system, Chiriqui's perfect
combination of highlands and abundant rainfall set the stage for world
class whitewater rafting. Descending from the flanks of the volcano, these
rivers have been hailed by many a rafter to be some of the best
stretches of river throughout Central America. Both day trips and
multi-day raft trips are offered on the Chiriqui and Chiriqui Viejo
rivers as well as various river classification levels (class III-class
IV predominate). And if the excitement of whitewater has piqued your
interest for a more personalized sort of water sport, three day kayaking
clinics taught by stateside instructors will set you on your way down
these rivers.
Although not necessarily
conducive to nature watching (one is usually more concentrated on
running the rapids), these river trips offer rare glimpses of remote
areas of Chiriqui that in some instances are virtually only accessible
by your river craft. Some of these rivers take you through untouched
gorges and to little known but spectacular waterfalls that tower above
you as they cascade into the river.
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